The East Kimberly region, including a special visit from Dad/Grandpa

Our East Kimberly experience began with an unexpected  3 day stay in Wyndham- a port town North West of Kununurra.  This stay was unexpected as we had planned to go to Kununurra first. However, with the beginning of the peak grey nomads season coinciding with the NT, NSW, QLD and WA school holidays, many parks were full. We could therefore not get a site that we wanted (yes we were being a bit picky) until 3 days later, so we decided to go straight to Wyndham, a town we had planned to visit anyway. The town of Wyndham itself is rather average, mostly due to the steady decline of its' core export industries over the past ten or so years. Not even a pub can afford to stay open!! The Wyndham Caravan Park, home to the largest boab tree in captivity, was, in contrast nicely renovated, well maintained and quite vibrant. The owner was extremely accomodating and helpful (giving Ophet plenty of fishing tips) and, with her troop of backpackers, the park ran so well that we decided it was a rather nice place to be stuck!! In Wyndham itself we did a little sight seeing including the boab tree, the grotto, the five rivers lookout and the wharf and surrounds. We took a rather large detour along King River Rd in search of some big fish, but didn't realise how far we had to travel on a dirt track! By the time we got there (with Jai carefully holding the live bait) we had an hour to fish before sunset!  We mostly however, used Wyndham as a base to finish off school work, assignments and get blogs up to date; in preparation for our "holiday from our holiday". I even managed a great run from the caravan park to the wharf and back, the longest i have done since leaving Darwin. Flat and straight, very few cars passing by and no sight of a traffic light; a little different from my runs around Beecroft!

The Prison Boab at the Wyndham Caravan Park

Catching the live bait

My morning run; straight and flat!!

The five rivers lookout (King, Durack, Pentecost, Forester and The Ord)

Next back to Kununurra for 3 lovely days. Ophet had investigated areas to fish and with a fellow traveler friend, fished morning and night until he got the monkey off his back and landed the elusive Barra or two!  In between fishing we explored the Kununurra points of interest including the Sandle Wood factory, Ivanhoe crossing (which we heard closed several days after we crossed it), and the the bangles shop. Geographically,  Kununurra is in the middle of a few key attractions. El Questro (on the Gibb river rd) and  Lake Argyle to the south east. Given we had booked five nights in Lake Argyle, we decided to do a day trip to El Questro.  Starting as early as we could (which wasn't that early!), we made the trek out to El Questro and a few of its' attractions. Zebedee Springs had to be our first stop as it is only open to the public until midday. We managed to eventually get there at 11 and the kids had an hour of floating around before the rangers appeared to usher us all out (they really stuck to the midday rule as tour buses arrived in droves after that). With the kids announcing that these were by far their favourite springs so far, we were glad we came. We then jumped back into the car and made a few river crossings to get to the Station. We saw friends almost as soon as we arrived, so had a nice lunch catching up, while the kids excitedly got as much play time in as they could. Before long however, we realised it was close to 2pm and we needed to get to Emma Gorge. We had heard that the trek in typically takes an hour and with the sun setting close to 530, we had to hurry. We bid friends farewell (knowing we would cross paths through the Kimberly or on the West Coast) and set off for Emma Gorge (a place Emma had put on her must do list; for obvious reasons)! Emma Gorge is before the  El Questro turn off (coming from the east) along the Gibb River  Rd and for those wanting to see part of the Kimberly but without a 4W Drive or with limited time, this is absolutely one of my recommendations. The trek into the Gorge was picturesque, at times challenging but very interesting. The kids navigated their way across rocks, rock holes and uphill easily. Emma the previous day had overheard a conversation where another traveller had indicated that she might find some of the climbs over the bigger rocks difficult, and that we may need to lift her up. I am sure you all know that for our determined Em, this was never going to happen. After a lovely walk, everyone else braved the cold water and refreshed themselves in the sublime water hole. As tempted as i was, i was happy to be photographer for this one!

Lake Kunanarra

Sunset

Selfie on the stage

The freshie that visits the shore of the Lake near the caravan park most days

The rare birds aviary at the Kimberlyland Caravan Park

Ivanhoe Crossing

Emma Gorge

After a tough few days (ha ha) we were already very much in holiday mode by the time we reached one of the places i had been extra excited to visit; Lake Argyle! Like many places in this enormous and amazing country of ours, like Argyle is, i believe, one of those places which  can only be best explored with time. Many travellers we met only had one day to explore it, and could really only have a quick look around and literally touch their toes in the infinity pool, before having to head back to Kununurra. We were lucky enough to have five full days which included a special visit from Grandpa/Dad, to explore, relax and explore some more.

We arrived earlier than dad (he had a late flight from Perth), but happily checked into his cabin "for him" and unpacked some of the kids and my stuff into the 2nd bedroom..augh space! While the cabin was by no means big, it was definitely much more than we have become accustomed to. It was also in an ideal location, with big green lush grass at the doorstep (yes this is now important given the red dust of the area), the lake and infinity pool 50 metres in one direction and the bistro/reception area (and access to all important WIFI from 4.30-6pm each night) 50 metres in the other direction. Grace and i immediately got our puzzle out and started it.

The infinity pool

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With the arrival of Grandpa there was huge excitement. He got to learn all about all the places we had been, friends we had made, animals we had seen and anything else the kids found amusing within five minutes of waking up. Yes Grandpa we missed you!!!

After a workout (there is finally grass to exercise on) and a relaxing breakfast overlooking the lake, we decided to ride to the boat hire place next door. We soon discovered that the hire shop was also a tour booking shop and with the huge influx of people, tours were already almost booked out. We raced back to get Dad (as we knew that he wanted to do a few tours whilst here) and within the next hour had organised the week ahead. Boat hire after lunch, flight over the Lake Argyles and Bungle Bungles for dad Wednesday morning and a Lake cruise for all of us from midday on Friday. That meant two days of doing very little, and with no school work and all assignments that i could complete already completed, i intended to do just that!! 

Soon it was time for us to head back up the hill to board our little boat. With the knowledge of just how big the lake was (16-20 times the size of Sydney Harbour), we decided not to venture too far, for fear of getting lost! It turned out that we didn't need to. Skipper Ophet and the trusty depth sounder, led us to a spot perfect for catching the Lake's specialty; Silver Cobbler. There is much debate over whether this is actually a different species to the notoriously bad eating Catfish. It is certainly from the same family group, however rumour was, that it was much nicer to eat. Some say it is the same fish with a clever marketing ploy so that the fish could be sold at markets. Regardless we decided we would try it, and within an hour we had each (yes including me) landed at least one. After a successful fish, it was time for me to switch places with dad (only four people could be on the boat at any point in time). So with five bloody, spiky Silver Cobbler, i started the steep and rocky accent from the wharf back to the campground. Having to hold approximately 15kg awkwardly either in front or to the side, i had sore arms by the time i reached the top to tag team with Dad! Who needs weights? The kids, Ophet and Dad continued to have a cruise around and swim in the lake, while i cooked up a salad nicoise and had some time to myself (to do more of the puzzle).  The day ended with a glass of wine, dinner and entertainment from Steve Case (the same musician that was at Kimberlyland).

This trail reminded Grace of someone...

Dad was up and out early the next morning to drive back into Kununurra and catch his flight over the Lake and the Bungle Bungles. In the meantime we explored the dam and some of the lookouts in the area before coming back to do, a bit more of not a lot!! I had promised the kids i would have a quick dip with them in the pool and quick it was, the water was freezing!!  Chef Ophet started to prepare the Silver Cobbler for dinner and before we knew it, the sun was setting and it was time for cheese and biscuits, dip and drinks, while Dad told us all about his flight; tough gig i know! Bbq Silver Cobbler for dinner, the verdict; not much taste with a texture more like crab than fish. Not my favourite, but given we have been spoiled by the likes of barramundi recently, i could just be a little fussy!

I started the next day with a run down to the bottom of the dam wall. Easy enough, until i had to come back up! With all the flat running i have been doing, the hill was tough and i had to stop a few times to catch my breathe. Lucky that i am not able to do City2surf this year, heart break hill : no thanks. I know for many, a holiday/trip like this would have meant a break from the normal exercise regime. For me however, running and the occasional body weight resistance workout has been my little bit of normality. While i love many aspects of the spontaneous nature of this trip (i have tried hard to embrace it), i do need some sort of routine (pretty sure most of our readers know this about me). Running every second or third day has been this for me. Apart from being awesome exercise and a great way to explore, it also gives me a little time out (much needed when being with four other people 24/7 in a 6m van or the Land Cruiser)! Run done, we did a little more of not a lot, before dad surprised Ophet and i with a helicopter ride over the Lake; spectacular! With the kids and dad waving us off ,we lifted off to see the lake from the air, the only way to really appreciate its' size and the  contrasting landscape.

The bottom of the dam wall

Taking off!!

To say we saved the best for last, might be cliched, but it was certainly true in the case of our Argyle experience. We boarded our cruise boat at around midday and spent a relaxing, informative and fun afternoon cruising and swimming in the lake. Our cruise guide Matt, took a laid back approach which set the mood for the afternoon. His detailed knowledge of the area and experience was obvious and we soaked it up (especially the kids), there was not a hint of "i'm bored". There was something for everyone, crocs, birds, spiders, fish, wallabies, geography and history of the area, swimming and of course the beauty of the natural landscape.

Lake Argyle, you are a special place and i hope we can return to visit again. However, after five days it was time to go. The pressing question; did we manage to finish the puzzle.....

so close!!!