Car time

Time in the car…..

So far we have travelled approximately 8000km in 8 weeks. At an average of 100km/hr that equates to 80 hours of pure monotonous driving time!!!

Typically, when leaving a site, we start the pack up at around 8 (once kids are awake) and leave at around 10 (give or take an hour).  We did however, on one occasion, manage to be hooked up and on the road by 730am! This was after an overnight camp at a free roadside stop at Attack Creek , 45 km’s north of three-ways in NT (yes literally in the middle of nowhere)!

We have a bit of a routine going, which mostly means I do the inside while Ophet does the outside (and suffers the heat and mozzies)! Thanks Ophet! I start as early as I can, so that I avoid the heat (or ensure I still have air-conditioning if we are at a powered site) and then can do something with the kids while Ophet continues packing away the outside stuff. While the kids do have jobs, it is sometimes easier without their “help”!! We then often drive for a few hours, stop for lunch and sometimes to see a town that we are passing through, then back in the car for another few hours. That way we get to the next destination before dusk and the danger period for roadkill!

Once on the road, schooling starts. With most drives being around 4-5 hours, this allows a good chunk of the school work to be done in the car so that we don’t have to do it when we get to a new and exciting place. Grace and Jai have a folder each with a list of tasks to complete, some of which they can do on their own, but some of which requires me to “teach” a lesson.  Em of course can not be left out, so has requested that lists be created for her too. Unfortunately, Em is not happy to colour or draw, but instead wants to do maths , reading and writing like big brother and sister.  As you can imagine this results in either constant helping from me (or Grace!!), or frustration from Em. At one point she announced “you should have made me a twin too”! In saying that,the last few car trips, Emma has taken to writing everything she knows for hours on end, “Emma Skye Phimsipasom” is now mastered and she is working on our address !

                                                               Teacher Grace

Ophet has at this stage done the vast majority of the driving. When, on one occasion, I asked Ophet if he wanted me to take over he replied with.... “does that mean I have to do the schooling”? When the answer was “yes” the offer was  quickly declined . Luckily, this suits me fine too, as the constant dishing out of work, food and answering questions make the time go by faster.

We have also trialled a few seating arrangements over the 8000km’s. Each of the kids have had a turn at being the “middle” child, but we have now done a full circle and back to Emma being in the middle again (she enjoys being the centre of most things!!)  I am not convinced this is the best arrangement but will wait and see.

 Jai passing the time learning to plait grace's hair while she snoozes. (crazy what boredom makes you do) #Twin love!!


We have limited screen time in the car . No, not because we want to inflict punishment on ourselves (!!!), but because we were finding that the kids seemed to have more arguments about devices, (who was doing what to whose Minecraft world etc)  than anything else.  So, school work, reading, journals,  drawing, the occasional sleep, singing (yes eeeeek), craft and collage books it is. Oh and daydreaming for Jai...typically followed by a random yet oddly thought provoking questions or fact! He is the king of spotting animals , especially birds of prey or BOPS as we now call them.

The bonus of long boring drives, is that when we eventually stop, the kids find the smallest things amusing and fascinating in a town or roadhouse. These are pics the kids took of each other at a roadhouse toilet.

Now, to look back on Grace's rules at the very start of our journey (the laminated sheets are still in the car). We are constantly eating (and not over the plastic bags provided), fights do occur, (between all of us!) and listening to mum and dad occurs... sometimes.  Overall however, i think we are doing ok. Or maybe i have to be thinking in an optimistic way knowing that we still have many many many many km's to travel with some looooooooong stretches on the west coast!!!!




So

Stop #18 - Mt Isa to Mataranka

Disappointed at not being able to visit Lawn Hill and Adel's Grove, we head south to Mt Isa looking to repair the car's suspension and a taste of civilisation.

We are met with spectacular views of sheer rock formations, as we drive into the town of Mt Isa, arriving on the Saturday afternoon.  We were in desperate need of a grocery shop, however we thought we would wait until Sunday to do our shopping.  Much to our dismay, most of the shops in Mt Isa are shut on a Sunday, the place resembling a ghost town, complete the with the spinifex, and dust blowing down the streets of the town.

We spend the Sunday visiting the Information Centre, and the Riversleigh Fossil Centre, as these were pretty much the only things open on the day.  

We did manage to find a small IGA, and stopped off at Maccas for a sneaky apple pie, much to Jackie's disapproval.

With most things closed on the Sunday, we're not able to find out whether we can get the car suspension fixed, so we hang around until Monday, after which we find they do not have the spare parts.  We'll have to wait until we get to Darwin to get them fixed.

Before departing Mt Isa, we visit the water park, which was situated out in front of the operating mine that dominates the backdrop to the whole town.  It was deserted, and we had the place mostly to ourselves.

Mt Isa is clearly a place that is built upon the mining industry, with the population solely based around this industry.  The main operating mine/distribution centre forms the backdrop to the town, like a proud painting sitting above the mantle piece of one's home.  The houses are mostly single storey fibro, windswept, devoid of grass and mostly  covered by the red dust that is prevalent in this area.

Leaving Mt Isa, we push hard west to the Three Ways and 47klms north on the Stuart Highway, making our way up to Darwin.  We free camp overnight, before driving for most of the day to Mataranka.  On our way north, we stop off at the infamous Daly Waters pub, it was not busy when we were there, but one can imagine the place would be pumping most nights, jammed with mostly backpackers and travellers.

We stay at the National Park at Mataranka, just outside the Homestead to the hot springs.  On our way to our campsite, we see lots of what I thought was horse manure, but turned out to be donkey manure.  As we find over the next few nights, the national park has a healthy population of donkeys, that frustratingly continually eeyored loudly throughout the night.

We meet the caretakers of the national park, who diligently collect camping fees from campers as they set up their sites.  I speak to the man about fishing and he provides me with intel on a spot he fishes regularly and has had success with in the past.

I try fishing the place during a couple of mornings, without any success.  Walking in pitch dark through a national park to a fishing spot that potentially has saltwater crocodiles was pretty unnerving, with each sound in the darkness causing me to jump and pause, hoping the culprit was not of the dangerous kind.

The result of my adventures were a few lost lures, and one stinky catfish caught on a lure.  The place looked fishy enough, however with the little rain they have experienced out this way, the river was overrun with weed, making fishing this place very difficult.

Whilst staying at Mataranka, we visit Bitter Springs, the Mataranka Hot Springs and see some Barramundi feeding.  The kids were not fans of Bitter Springs, with the place smelling from the gases released from the springs and natural weed and foliage adding to the rawness of the experience.

The hot springs at Mataranka were more popular with the kids, the manicured baths and cleaner waters more to their liking.  Grace does some artwork with the weed growing on the side of the springs, and we spend most of the afternoon at the springs, escaping the heat of the day.

The first game of the State of Origin was on during our stay at Mataranka, and although we managed to escape over the QLD border in time, the majority of the patrons at the homestead were Maroons supporters.  And when the Maroons triumphed at the final whistle, 95% of the crowd cheered in delight, further demoralising a downtrodden Blues supporter.  Damn those Queenslanders.

After spending 3 nights at Mataranka, we decide to alter our route and head to Litchfield National Park, as reports from other travellers tell us that the main attractions in Kakadu were closed due to the heavy rain received in the past weeks.  We'd head to Litchfield, then Darwin, hoping that these places would open by the time we head back south to Katherine.

Our long stay in Darwin - by Grace

We left Litchfield and drove to Darwin. The first thing we did when we got there was go grocery shopping, and then we went and checked out our caravan park, it was called Free Spirit, it is really good but expensive!!!


The next day we did school work at camp kitchen, we did about 2 hours, then for the rest of the day we just cruised around!!! In the afternoon we went to Casuarina shops, it was HUGE, well maybe just to us!! We have been in the middle of nowhere most of the time and were getting used to seeing only small shops!!!

On Saturday we went to Darwin museum. It was so interesting, we learned about cyclone Tracy,  even Mum learned new things about cyclone Tracy. We also learned about butterflies, birds, and all sorts of underwater creatures, it was really cool!

shells on display at the museum

butterflies on display at the museum

In the afternoon we went ţo Mindel markets, they were really nice, they were my favourite markets in Darwin. The food was delicious, there was lots of jewellery and cloths, a dog show, and a relaxing beach where you can watch the sun set, and lots more.

sunset at Mindel markets

On the next day we did more school work in the morning. Then in the afternoon we played with our friends that we met at Litchfield (the Newalls). They have the same caravan as us, 3 kids, are from Sydney and do the same Distance education as us. We spent lunch onwards playing with them. We did a dance routine in the pool and played lots of games.

On Tuesday we did school work AGAIN!!! Then in the afternoon we went to Palmerston water park, it was really fun, but it is more fun if you go on the big slide. It is scary when you think about it, but when you do it you won’t want to get off!!!! Trust me!!

Again in the morning we went to camp kitchen and did MORE school work!!! In the afternoon we went to the wave pool ( PARENTS if you want your kids to be EXHAUSTED go to the wave pool!!!!) The wave pool is really awesome, but the waves are really rough. You get free doughnut floaty rings and free boogey boards. Dad went fishing that afternoon, but unfortunately caught nothing.

On our last day we did school work, then went to the war museum (the WWII museum), it was good, especially if you like vehicles and learning about war. 

That afternoon, we again went to Mindel markets but this time we got our take away food there, and then ate and watched the sun set at East Point.

Since leaving Sydney that has been our longest stay, we stayed for 8 nights, we are now heading to Kakadu!!

PhimsiOzTrip Video #2 - Airlie Beach to Cooktown

We've put together a number of brief videos of our trip so far, enjoy !!

Stop #17 - Gregory Downs

Leaving Normanton, Jackie and the kids look forward to spending time in a more lush and fertile environment, where the kids can safely swim in fresh water creeks and rivers.  Our destination is Lawn Hill and Adel's Grove.  With mixed information from other travellers, we are no sure what the dirt road into these places are like, so we head to Gregory Downs, which we know is all bitumen and road closures should pose no threat.

On the way, we see lots of Bird of Prey, which we call BOPs.  These birds (Kites and Wedged Tail Eagles) are a novelty to us, as we see them circling above the skyline, riding the thermals, and scavenging off roadkill.  

The roads are also very straight, sometimes changing to single lane only.  This made it challenging when a Road Train races towards you, where you quickly need to move off the road and give full clearance to the behemoth.

 WARNING - Skip the next couple of paragraphs if you are eating or have a weak stomach.

We've not seen much roadkill to date, much less than we had anticipated.  We're able to avoid most of them, however travelling at such speeds and with the loss of concentration, I see a large Kangaroo (that had previously been run over) in the middle of our lane.  Thinking it was too dangerous to swerve out of the way, I line up the car to go over the middle of the vehicle.  The first half of the car went over fine, however we hear and feel a big thud at the back of the car.  I look in the rear vision mirror and see the kangaroo propelled sideways by the caravan rear wheel.

  

We stop at a rest stop a few klms up the road, so I can inspect the damage.  Exiting the car, I can immediately smell the stench of the kangaroo.  There is blood and matter splattered all over the front of the caravan, Jackie gagging at the site of it. 

 I inspect the underside of the car and caravan, seeing fur and chunks everywhere.  Upon looking at the caravan axle, I spot what I thought was a lengthy strip of skin.  I find a stick to remove the skin, and find out it was not skin but the entrails of the kangaroo.  The kids find it fascinating, Jackie ran for the hills.

On the subject of roadkill, there are plenty of cattle on the road, requiring us to slow down and stop at some stages, fearing they would run in front of the vehicle.

We re-fuel at the Bourke and Wills roadhouse, allowing me to also hose off and scrub some of the kangaroo from the car.  Knowing we'd be free camping at Gregory Downs, I knew this would be the only chance I'd have of cleaning the car and caravan for the next couple of days.

Arriving at Gregory Downs late in the afternoon, we head down to the river, ignoring the No Camping signs.  We've read that these are more for safety reasons, and that it was the done thing to camp by the creek.  Other campers stay up the top of the bridge, baking in the hot sun; they soon join us down by the cool, sheltered creek.  As we head down the dirt trail to the creek, we see plenty of space and decide to move closer to some other campers, to make room for others to come and for safety reasons.  A group of campers had set up their campervans down by the river, and had their camp fire blazing.

As I pull up, I ask a couple closer to the bridge, whether they were ok for us to set up beside them.  They were friendly and had no problem with us setting up next to them.

What happens next is something that disappoints me, and saddens me, for my kids to witness and experience.  I guess it is also part of their learning experience and something that I've had to explain to them.

As I un-hitch the caravan and start setting up, one of the men from the river campsite walks past with his bull terrier in tow.  I try to engage, smile and go on with my work.  He paces up and down and comments that there is plenty of space out here and that some people don't like to be cramped and live like people in the city.  I look at him puzzled, I reply that this is our first time free camping, and I wanted to keep space for others and be closer to other campers for safety; plus the people next to us did not mind us being next to them.  He suggests we should move, and I motioned we were happy where we were.  He scowls  that we stay away from his campfire, and walks off, before telling our neighbours that they were welcome to his campfire.  I look at our immediate neighbours, and they shrug their shoulders.

The kids ask what that was all about, they were puzzled as we had experienced only nice and open people to date, and that the man had not "given us a chance".  I explained that there are some people in this world, country, that are like that, and we should just ignore them and be friendly to everyone.  I know I joke around with my friends about racism etc, but I can't help think that this man's actions were motivated more by the colour of my skin and my appearance, rather than our/my actions.  With my kids, I don't believe they will experience such racism, as they are not clearly from an ethnic background, and times have changed so much that the next generation will presume it normal; accepting that Australia is multi-cultural, with everyone having the same right to be here.  I hope I am right.

With the bad start aside, we set up and have dinner.  After finishing dinner we set up our chairs in the pitch darkness and wonder at the bright sparkling stars above.  I'd never seen so many stars in the sky before, so bright and each one of them sparkling like diamonds.  

Jai pointed out the Southern Cross, and with so many stars in the sky, it was hard to pick out other formations (not that anyone knew what we were looking for).  We sit outside downing chocolate for a while, the kids mesmerized by the show put on by the stars.  We had to explain to them why we cannot see such things in Sydney, and where we need to be in the middle of Australia to see such a spectacle.

The next morning, our "friendly" campers pack up and leave.  Our kids and Jackie wave goodbye to them, and the first car waves back, with the passenger in our mate's car sheepishly waving back to the kids.  I hope our smiles and gesture help make such people realise that there is nothing to be gained from being nasty to other people, and that we can all have a good time together.

After doing some school work, we venture up to the pub at midday for some lunch.  Jackie visits the General Store, a makeshift storage unit that stores consumables with a long Use By date.  

Jackie tells us that the owner was putting on a Pizza night, raising money for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.  I see no sign outside or advertising for it.  We want to support the local business and a good cause, so we spread the word amongst the other campers, who have now lined the creek where we are camped. 

Whilst at the pub, we make a call to the Council Information Hotline to ask about the road conditions to Lawn Hill.  Being with Optus and Vodafone, there is very little coverage in the bush, so we resort to using the good old telephone booth.  The kids had not seen one in use before, so we take joy in showing them how we used to do things in the olden days.  Another lesson chalked up for the kids.

We escape the scorching afternoon heat by spending the rest of the afternoon floating down the creek, jumping off the swings into the creek and relaxing in the shade.  As per usual, Jackie meets lots of new people and spreads the word about Pizza night.

After toasting marshmallows, we change and head up to Murray's place for pizza.  Grace is ravenous and hangry by this stage, and we hope the pizza will be cooked in quick time.  Arriving at Murray's place, there is no lighting and we drive back and forth trying to find the entrance.  It didn't look like he was doing a roaring trade.  

Surely enough, we are the only ones that have turned up, and Murray was still working on the wood fire and the home made pizza oven.  As expected in the outback, it didn't look like Murray was in a hurry.  Murray introduces his other half, Ronnie, and we strike up interesting conversation about their work, family and his Kokoda Trail ambitions.  Even though relaxed and pedestrian, I think Murray picked up the kids were hungry, especially Grace.  He eventually assembles the pizza and puts them in the oven, bringing them out after a few minutes.  

Much to our horror, the pizzas are burnt to a crisp, the crust burnt black to 5mm thick.  Unperturbed, Murray slices the pizzas and serves them to us. I watch as Grace grabs a few pieces and starts eating.  Out of kindness and hunger, she forces herself to eat the charred slabs of pizza, eat bite making me cringe with fear.

Jai was not so obliging, even though he manage to eat some of the pizza, he mainly stuck to eating the chicken pieces that Ronnie had popped into the conventional oven.  I was proud of the children, as they showed awareness and politeness beyond their years, appreciating the hospitality and kindness of Murray and Ronnie.  They did not whinge or complain about the burnt food or timeliness, and soaked up the event as another experience for the trip.  After devouring Ronnie's homemade icecream late in the night, we make our donations to Murray's cause, thank them both for their hospitality and bid them farewell.  

We sneak in another session of star gazing, before the kids hit the sack and sleep soundly after a big day of swimming.

Next morning Jackie scoots off on her run, and not surprisingly finds a running partner.  Trying to pack up and whilst making the kids breakfast, I set them a challenge of running up and down the creek 4 times.  Jai and Emma make it half way, determined Grace finishes he challenge quicker than I anticipated.  

I cook rice for the first time on this trip, the kids missed having fried eggs and rice for breakfast.

We find that the road to Lawn Hill is still closed, and will be closed for a few weeks yet.  The road to Adel's Grove is also closed, but access can be had via the alternate road.  We make a decision to bypass Lawn Hill, and head south along the bitumen to Mt Isa, where we hope to stock up and look to repair the suspension on the car.

We had a great time at Gregory Downs, and the kids thoroughly enjoyed their first free camping experience.  We'd certainly recommend Gregory Downs, and unfortunately Lawn Hill and Adel's Grove will have to be wait for another time.