Wednesday 13 July 2016

Kaka "do", but that is just my opinion

Kaka'do", Kaka'don't" is a common phrase that is circulating among travellers through NT at the moment. Why? At $40 per person for park entry alone (camping fees are in addition to this), i can completely understand why many may choose to give it a miss. Especially since the likes of Litchfield National Park, Nitmiluk National Park (Katherine) and Elsey National Park (Mataranka) are completely free and offer so much to the traveler in the way of scenery, swimming holes, waterfalls and culture. Luckily for us, however, this was one time where having kids does not mean that we have to pay much more.

Please don't get me wrong, we chose to do this adventure with the kiddos and definitely therefore expect to have to pay extra accordingly, however sometimes the extra cost is beyond what we feel is reasonable (e.g. paying $15 per child per night at a caravan par where we were already paying $50). This time however, the family rate for park entry was only $20 more than we would have paid as two adults , bargain (for us, not so much for the grey nomads or backpackers).

We commenced our "Kakadu" experience just outside Kakadu, just shy of the north-eastern entry on the Corroboree Billabong. On arrival at the the Corroboree Tavern, we were pleased to find some fellow residents; Brutus (a salty), Fred (a freshie), two turtles, pigs, and a Albino buffalo .

Brutus

Fred

The kids would have probably happily spent their time here just hanging with all the animals, but we did decide to venture out. We chose a cruise on the billabong, in the hope of seeing a big croc in the wild. Somehow my fear of crocs has now turned into a fascination. The more i learn about these creatures, the more i am intrigued and quite in awe of them (no, I am not turning croc hunter on you, there is still no way i am going anywhere near water where it is rumoured they may have been)!! The cruise was disappointing for croc spotting, only one smallish one again. The reason we have been told , is that the waters are warmer than normal at this time of year and hence the crocs can stay in the water for longer without needing to sun bake to increase body temp. They are also reasonably shy and don't really like to be seen. Despite no big ones, the cruise was scenic, informational and very relaxing. Sitting next to Jai, i not only had the tour guide telling me information about the fauna and flora in the area, but our phimsi bird spotter was on fire. He was pointing out birds before the tour guide and his spots often directed where the tour took us!

                                                   Jai the "spotter" on our cruise

Next stop Merl, a national park campground near Cahill's crossing and Ubirr. We decided to stay here because of its' location, unfortunately the mozzies also had the same idea!! Merl however was a great base for croc spotting (at Cahill's crossing and the down stream boat ramp), fishing, seeing the art work , the Ubirr sunset and for a random authentic Thai dinner out! Cultural activities and talks were  also included in the cost of the Kakadu pass. We were able to get to two of the workshops. A weaving workshop at Merl and a traditional painting workshop at Bowali visitor centre in Jabiru. We all enjoyed these, but they were especially a highlight for Grace.


Ophet fishing (from a safe vantage point on the rocks) at Cahill's crossing. 3 big crocs came across the crossing within the hour!!!








Ubirr sunset


Grace splitting pandanas leaves: the first of many steps to make a bracelet

                               
                                                           Looking at rock art in Ubirr



                                                   
Onto the heart (or at least the tourist heart) of Kakadu, Jabiru. After a night with heat and mozzies we decided to stay at at the Kakadu Lodge, the main caravan park in Jabiru. From here we explored the Bowali visitor centre, with its' interesting displays, activities and documentaries (we could have stayed for hours), Nourlangie Rock art and shelter and several small billabongs.

Grace's long necked turtle

Mixing the ochre with various rocks

The last big ticket item for us to see in Kakadu was one of its' many magnificent waterfalls. We decided not to endure the 2 hour each way rough dirt road to Jim Jim Falls as the alternate option, Gunlom falls, were rumoured to be easier to get to and quite spectacular. The next choice, van or no van, was an easy one for us, so we stayed at the nearby Mary River Roadhouse and did a day trip into the falls. Within minutes of hitting the corrugated dirt road we were happy with this decision. An hour later of bumping around, we arrived at the base of the falls. We wandered to the lower pool and if it had not been from the advice of fellow travellers, we would have happily spent all afternoon mulling around in the beautiful watering hole at the base. Instead we took the steep, challenging but rewarding journey through the bushland. By the time we arrived we were hot,sweaty and tired, so happily lay on the cool sheltered rocks to rest and have lunch and soak in the surrounds. Grace and Ophet were brave enough to swim, but with the warning of freshies, Jai, Emma and i decided to wait until the next swimming area, the famous natural infinity pool. A lovely afternoon up here, swimming and playing with friends (that we coincidentally bumped into again).


                                          Ophet starting the trek up to the falls with his girls!

                                               Jai, hot and sweaty at the top!



                                                One of the pools at the top of Gunlom Falls

The climb down was easier in terms of cardio, but we needed to be super careful as it was slippery. There were a few crazy people who seemed to take the challenge to run up and down this climb several times, but no, i decided not to!! Another bumpy, but faster journey home as Ophet's confidence on these types of roads increases. A big but great day out.



                                             Em asleep on the bumpy ride home





Crocs, fishing, a plethora of other wildlife, art, sunsets, falls, cultural experiences, walks , mozzies and heat! That was our Kakadu experience . I think we all enjoyed different aspects of it. Overall for us the vote was a unanimous Kak-a-do !

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