Stop #48 to 49 - WA North Coast Towns

Having visited the glamour towns of the Coral Coast, we head further south towards Perth.  We'd planned to meet Jackie's dad in Perth or Margaret River, so with the weather getting cooler as we head down south, we reluctantly make our way down.

First stop is Geraldton, where we decide to stay at a beach in Coronation Bay, off the grid, with the intention of doing day trips into town.

The beach itself was cold, and covered in weed.  Despite the cool climate and weed, the beach was picturesque, especially from the lookout at the back of the campsite.

We visit the Maritime museum whilst on a daytrip, and learned about the number of ship wrecks located in the region, including the infamous Batavia; which ran aground on the west coast, setting off a chain of events that resulted in mutiny, desertion, executions, rescues and the eventual return of survivors back to Batavia.

Dropping into the Visitor Centre in town, we discover a great park next to the water, where the kids entertained themselves for hours.  The park had Foosball tables, table tennis tables, a large gym and slide set, and free power for people to charge their devices.  We decided to do our school work in the sun, whilst mum and dad charged their devices and accessories as well.

We discover this is one of a few parks around the foreshore of Geraldton, all well equipped, and catering for the local public, as well as tourists and families.

We also learn that there is a 24 hour free camp near the boat ramp, which we try out for our last night at Geraldton.  To say we had a torrid night was an understatement.  First issue were the backpackers that decided to drink, party and carry on up to midnight, and then the constant port traffic that included trains and the honking of ship horns before the crack of dawn. 

Despite the bad night's sleep, Jac still went for her morning run, and we headed to the local bakery (Wonda Bake) for some breakfast and treats.  The bakery is owned by some Vietnamese families, and we were they had a few other bakeries further down the coast, who had managed to modernise and mix the traditional bakery fare with the Vietnamese/French influence.  There was coffee and traditional cakes/pastries, as well as Pork Rolls and asian food; all done tastefully and professionally presented.  I was rather impressed.

After committing the cardinal sin of eating KFC the previous night, we decided to have a relatively healthy breakfast, followed by the now traditional custard tart and vanilla slice.  Well the sandwiches were great, and the French vanilla slice amazing.  We leave the bakery satisfied, and happier with the freshly baked $2 loaf of bread.

On our way out of Geraldton, we visit the HMAS Sydney II memorial on top of the hill overlooking the town.  It is a lovely site, with beautiful monuments commemorating the brave men and women who lost their lives during the sinking of the ship.  

The story of the HMAS is a tragic one, all the crew losing their lives during battle with a disguised German cruiser, with the finding of the ship only occurring recently in 2008.  We first learned about the story in Carnarvon, and the story is told and commemorated throughout many towns along the west coast.  This is another history lesson that we've had on this trip, hopefully the kids can remember and appreciate the relevance of such events of our past.

Our next intended destination is the small town of Port Denison, however we pass Dongora on our way, and spot another 24 hour by the local sports ground.  Given Port Denison was only 5 minutes away, we decide to set up at the free camp and drive into Port Denison for a day trip.

After setting up, we drive around Dongora (not much there, only a few local surf shops and small IGA) and then head to Port Denison.  We stop off at the local park, which again is well equipped with undercover BBQs and dining tables, overlooking the marina and breakwall.  As we let the kids play on the park equipment, we not the beautiful colours of the sun setting amongst a backdrop of breaking clouds.  Perfect picture opportunity, and both Jackie and I take a few snaps that will definitely make the highlights reel.

After marvelling at the sunset, we cook our BBQ dinner by the water, washed back by wine and beer, and head back to the free camp.

We spend the next day wandering around the Dongora shops, Jacs and the kids scoring with 50% sales on winter clothing; quite handy since someone decided not to pack any cold weather gear..

We'd planned on staying another night at Dongora, but unfortunately we were moved on by the Ranger.  Despite there being only a handful of other caravans set up at the free camp, the council is enforcing strict 24 hour camping on the site, apparently something to do with giving the local caravan parks a fair go.

So we head off late, heading towards Jurien Bay, edging closer to Perth.  We decide to camp off-grid at Sandy Cape, a campground by the beach.  Unfortunately the weather has deteriorated significantly by now, with high winds, rain and bitter coldness the norm; horrific conditions to try and camp off-grid.

We arrive after dark to the site, and are given a spot by the eclectic care taker Tom.  Like many of the campgrounds around WA, this one provides the feeling of remoteness and removal from modern society.  The smell of campfires, occasional dog barking, and humming of generators reminding you that there are others around.  We also saw some massive Kangaroos at the sight, some of the biggest we've seen on this trip.

Our site is only metres from the secluded beach, which we didn't manage to walk or play on, due to our spending most of the days in Jurien Bay.  That night, the wind was blowing hard, it rained and it was rather cold.  Throughout the trip I always maintained sleeping on the inside of the bed, closest to the window.  Of course, this meant I was most exposed to the elements, and when it rained heavily and was windy, this meant there would be some leakage and dampness creeping into the bed.  All these circumstances amounted to restless sleeps at Jurien Bay, and coupled with the low battery situation, as there was not sufficient sunlight to fully charge the battery during the day, our stay at Jurien Bay was not optimal.  Sandy Cape certainly was beautiful, as was Jurien Bay, and during the warmer and calmer months, they would be sensational spots to camp and holiday, we just did not see them in their full glory.

Despite the trying conditions, we did manage to venture out for sight seeing in Jurien Bay, which is a nice small town by the water.  There is a new jetty set up for fishing, and plenty of parks and amenities for the general public to use.  We visited the bakery in town, linked to the Wonda Bake bakery in Geraldton, however the custard tarts and vanilla slices did not rate compared to what we devoured in Geraldton.

Jai was very keen to also try to catch a squid at the jetty, having seen the tell tale signs of squid ink sprayed all over the jetty floor.  The only weather suitable afternoon we were able to squid was still blowing a gale, and bitterly cold.  Showers were still about, white caps covering the entire ocean.  Nevertheless, we'd made the trek from Sandy Cape, so we would give it a try.

The conditions were not only unpleasant, but somewhat dangerous with the high winds, so we stayed well away from the water's edge.  Only two other Russian fishermen we foolish enough to be out fishing on the jetty, and try as we may, we never even looked like we were going to catch a squid.  Again, I was impressed and pleased by Jai's determination to catch a squid, despite the inclement weather.

Gladly, we left the wet and cold conditions at Sandy Cape/Jurien Bay, heading southwards for Perth.  We briefly stopped at the Pinnacles in Cervantes for some sightseeing, before heading towards civilisation.