Stop #24 - Kakadu

I must admit that Kakadu was one of the destinations I was not fussed about.  Jackie and I had been there once before children and had seen most of the attractions.  But we had to find a spot in our trip to visit the iconic place, as it may be a while until the kids come back again (if ever).

We'd heard rumblings amongst fellow travellers and the grey nomads that Kakadu was infested with mosquitoes, more than Litchfield, and there was a hefty entry price to the National Park, in addition to the camping fees.  We'd done some enquiries and there was an entry fee of $100 for a family, and the camping site fees (National Park and Caravan Parks) were on the expensive side.  Undeterred, we made the decision to visit Kakadu and provide the experience for the children.

On our way to Kakadu, we stayed at the Corroboree Billabong roadhouse just outside Kakadu, with the intention of going on a cruise on the Billabong the next day.  The caravan park was small but lush and had the amenities/facilities we needed.  As is common with many of the roadhouses or caravan parks in the NT, the roadhouse had animal enclosures to attract passing tourists and as an added attraction for their caravan park.  In their enclosures they had a large estuarine crocodile named Brutus that is estimated to be 4.5m in length, a medium sized freshwater crocodile, pigs and two water buffaloes (one being albino).  The animals kept the kids entertained, marvelling at Brutus, as this was the biggest and closest we'd come to a large saltwater crocodile.

We opted for the 8:30am cruise on the billabong, and we had to endure a few klms of dirt road to get to the billabong.  The billabong was full of water, with water lilies covering the majority of the billabong. 

We saw plenty of birds that inhabit the billabong, however the crocodiles we'd hoped to see were aloof. 

  

Snake neck darter drying it's wings

It was explained to us by our knowledgeable guide that the water was unseasonably warm, which meant that the crocodiles were not compelled to sit on the banks of the billabong to acquire the warmth needed to survive.  This did not bode well for our croc sighting expedition, however the guide tried his hardest to find a crocodile for us, motoring up and down the billabong to locations that he had regularly spotted crocodiles.  Eventually he managed to push the boat through a thick patch of lilies and we spotted a juvenile crocodile hiding behind the lilies.  Not the monster that we had hoped to see, at least we saw an estuarine croc.

Onto Kakadu we drove the next day, and we set ourselves up at Merl campground, paying the $38 camping fee.  We thought the fee was pretty steep for one night, considering we'd already paid the $100 entry fee and there was no power and water onsite.  The amenities were nice, however the mosquitoes were thick in the cubicles and showers.  I'd not seen mosquitoes as thick and ferocious like these before, we had to swat them away like flies, and they were persistent, coming back for more, even after being swatted away.  That night, the kids and I decided to use the shower in our caravan for the first time, whilst Jackie and Grace braved  the mosquitoes.

Once set up at Merl, we headed to the infamous Cahills Crossing, a causeway that leads to Arnhem Land which is popular with tourists and fishermen.  Sightings of large crocodiles are common at this crossing, and a local man was decapitated by a crocodile when he slipped whilst fishing ankle deep in the water.  Certainly this was a place not to be complacent with crocodiles, and the utmost care must be taken if one was to fish in this area.

Fishermen risking their lives for a Barra

We walked to the viewing platform, and as we scanned the upstream river we see a large black crocodile swimming to shore, at the same time a semi-trailer was crossing the causeway.  The crocodiles are so used to motor traffic and humans in this area, they go about their daily life unperturbed, which spells danger for anyone within striking distance of these man eaters.  No longer do these crocodiles fear man, they view them as part of their habitat and would have no hesitation in turning humans into prey, should they get the opportunity.

This was the only crocodile we saw at the crossing, we were impressed nonetheless by it's sheer size.  We head down to the downstream boat ramp, and before I round the corner past the ramp, Jai yells out "there's a croc over there".  Sure enough, across the river from the boat ramp, lay what we estimate to be a 4m crocodile, baking on the muddy bank, once again unmoved by our presence.  We take some photos and manage to see it slide into the water. 

Although we have a real fear for this amazing creature, you can't help but be in awe of it's elegance when it slides on the mud and swims effortlessly up and down the river, like the king of the river.  We also visit the upstream boat ramp, where the water is much deeper and there are no banks for the crocodiles to bake, however we did not spot a crocodile.

It was now late afternoon, and we set off to Ubirr to see the famous aboriginal rock art and sunset over the flood plains.  The rock art was plentiful and provided our kids a good insight into the aboriginal culture, way of living and experiences thousands of years ago.

We make it to the top of the rocks at Ubirr, with time spare to watch the sunset over the floodplain, providing a great opportunity for the large crowd of people who have assembled on the top of the rocks.

On our way home we stop off at the Border store to have Thai for dinner.  Yes, having Thai food at the top of Kakadu is looking for disappointment, however our reconnaissance earlier in the day gave is comfort that the food would be good (we'd found out the cook was Thai and the owners split their time between Thailand and Kakadu).  Our confidence was justified, with the meals being of good portion and authentic taste, and the average price of $25 for a main was reasonable, given the location.

We could only brave one night at Merl, the mosquitoes getting the better of us.  Before heading to Kakadu lodge, I tried my luck at Cahills Crossing, a couple of hours before the high tide.  The water was murky, with zero visibility and the incoming tide had just risen above the crossing.  The midday sun was scorching, sapping my energy and concentration waned as the number of casts grew.  I was perched high above the water on rocks, far enough out of the croc's reach, however I needed to maintain composure and concentration.  Any slight slip or lapse of concentration could cause me to fall into the water, one inhabited by many of our oversized reptilian friends. 

I cast far, near, upstream and downstream, fast, slow.  No reward, I see no other fishermen having any success either.  After a couple of hours casting, I feel faint, the heat was starting to taking it's toll and I realise my dream of catching a barra at the iconic landmark will have to wait another time.  I call it quits before I become viral on the internet as the latest casualty of man vs croc in far north Australia.

We head to Kakadu lodge in Jabiru, back to civilisation, where there is surprisingly phone coverage for both Optus and Vodafone.  For an additional $8 per night, we have a nice green site, next to the pool, running water, power and plenty of amenities.  Merl was a good experience, very handy location, but the national park really need to review their pricing if they want people to utilise their site more.

Whilst at Jabiru, we visit the Bowali Information Centre, where Grace embraces the Aboriginal art of painting.  Two aboriginal men show their previously created artworks, and answer questions tourists have for them.  Grace paints and Almangiyi (Aboriginal name for long necked turtle) and receives the seal of approval from the professionals.

We also visit Nourlangie rock, via Anbangbang billabong.  The billabong was almost dry, however it is still teaming with bird life, however we could not spot any crocs.

Nourlangie rock was used by the ancient aboriginals as shelter from the elements, and the place is adorned with rock art throughout the many shelters within the rock.  There is a walk around the rock, which takes us over an hour and a half to complete.  The walk is broken up by rock paintings and signage, so the complaints from the kids are kept to a minimum.  I think the kids found the rock and paintings interesting, and it was definitely worthwhile to visit this attraction. 

On our way back to the car, we give some foreign backpackers a lift back to their car, which was parked many kilometres away. They'd lost their way and found themselves at Nourlangie rock, and with darkness setting in, they needed a ride back to their starting point.

We enjoy the taste of civilisation for two nights at Jabiru, stock up on food and head to the Mary River roadhouse for a couple of nights, where we visit Gunlom on our way out of Kakadu.  We made a decision not to take the caravan into Gunlom, based on reports of the road conditions, and it was justified when we made the rough and dusty trip into the falls. 

The road to Gunlom is ~30klm one way, all on dirt road, and it was rough and rutty from the start.  We initially drive at a slow pace due to the bumps and ruts, but soon realise this pace cannot be sustained if we were going to get into the site in reasonable time.  A car zooms past us, a cloud of dust is left behind for us to drive through.  We realise that they are driving fast to stay on top of the ruts, so we decide to lower the tyre pressure and give the fast driving a go.  It was unnerving at first, with the shaking and rattling of the car interior and coins getting louder and more violent, as the speed increased.  Once a speed of 70klm and above is reached, the shaking dissipates and the ride is smoother, but still rather bumpy.  So we continue at speed, riding above the bumps until we reach Gunlom.

Like other attractions out this way, Gunlom is based around a water fall, where the main attraction is the sandy beach at the bottom of the falls and the natural eternity pools at the top of the falls. 

Naturally, we decide to tackle the steep hike up to the top of the falls, to take in the view from above.  It's not long until Grace complains about being tired, so we nurse her all the way up to the top of the climb.  After much coercing and encouragement, we eventually make it to the top of the walk and find a pool all to ourselves.

We are told about another area further upstream that has sandy beaches and a good swimming hole, so we trek further upstream.  With Jai being spooked about crocodiles, only Emma, Grace and I go in for a dunk.  The kids soon become comfortable and entertain themselves by catching yabbies in the watering hole.

After a brief dip, we head back down to the main watering hole and the eternity pool overlooking the falls.  The area is packed with tourists, so we await our turn to take the obligatory snaps.

We see our friends the Franke family again, whom we first met at Merl campground, at the top of the falls, much to the delight of the kids.  I'm amazed to see how easily our kids have been able to make new friends amongst our travels.  I believe one of the biggest skills they will develop during our trip is their social skills.  The ability to scope out their environment, the kids within the caravan parks and determine who they are suitable with and most comfortable playing with.  How they introduce themselves, work out each other's characteristics and mingle with one another.  Also, they are learning how to interact with adults and behave in certain settings when around parents and elders. 

After swimming and chatting with the Franke family, we bid them farewell once again, knowing we will see them further along our travels.  We trek down the path, back to the car, this time with no complaining or whinging about the walk.

Gunlom was the night of the second State of Origin game, and luckily the pub at the roadhouse was televising it and putting on a sausage sizzle for the game.  The Blues put on a spirited performance, had their chances however fell short yet again.  The Maroons take out the series, once again the majority QLD crowd sing gaily, whilst we bitterly taste another lost series.

We pack up the next morning, and head out to Katherine.  Our second taste of Kakadu was great, and we're glad we made the stop this time.  The kids took in a lot of aboriginal culture, however there is some unfinished business at Cahills Crossing or any of the other creeks at Kakadu.  It would be good to see Kakadu in it's full glory, just after the monsoon rains have fallen.  Perhaps my luck will change when the rivers and billabongs are full of water and Lates calcarifer.  I shall be back to try once again.